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Des de Moor
Best beer and travel writing award 2015, 2011 -- British Guild of Beer Writers Awards
Accredited Beer Sommelier
Writer of "Probably the best book about beer in London" - Londonist
"A necessity if you're a beer geek travelling to London town" - Beer Advocate
"A joy to read" - Roger Protz
"Very authoritative" - Tim Webb.
"One of the top beer writers in the UK" - Mark Dredge.
"A beer guru" - Popbitch.
Des de Moor

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CTZN Brew

Includes information for Kew Brewery.

CTZN Brew, London SW14

Closed brewery
477 Upper Richmond Road West SW14 7PU (Richmond upon Thames)
ctznbrew.com
First sold beer: 7 June 2015 (as Kew Brewery)
Brewing ceased: December 2021

Ex-Weird Beard brewer Dave Scott struck out on own under the name Kew Brewery, originally jointly managed with his wife Rachel. A 10 hl kit from Oban Ales was installed in a garage at the back of a former shop unit in East Sheen, a little southeast of the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, with fermenters and storage in the shop itself, and eventually a cold store on a separate site a short distance away. Beers went on sale for the first time at the Kew Village Market in 2015, and soon established a local reputation.

In December 2018, the Scotts sold the brewery to Jana Gray, formerly at the Amsterdam Brewery in Toronto, and her partner Jonathan, though Dave retained a minority shareholding, and the business continued the environmentally-friendly policies he established. During 2019 the front of the unit was sometimes open as a shop and occasional taproom, though this remained challenging due to lack of space.

During the 2020 lockdowns, the owners rethought the business and in May 2021 relaunched under a new brand, CTZN (or Citizen) Brew. The new approach placed still more emphasis on social and environmental concerns, with an ambition to include sustainable ingredients from Africa in the recipes.

An offsite taproom was opened in Twickenham (29 York Street TW1 3NR) and it was originally intended to shift brewing here. Sadly the business struggled to recover and ceased trading in December 2021. Originally the owners hoped to resume elsewhere, but by summer 2022 the company had been placed into liquidation.

Beers were mainly bottle-conditioned and keg.

CTZN Brew’s Twickenham outlet.

Updated 4 August 2022.

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The Kernel Brewery

The Kernel Brewery, London SE16

Brewery
Original site: 98 Druid Street SE1 2HQ (Southwark)
Current site: 11 Dockley Road Industrial Estate (taproom at Arch 7) SE16 3SF (Southwark)
thekernelbrewery.com
First sold beer: 1 December 2009

Evin O’Riordan, originally from Waterford, Ireland, worked in the mid-2000s for specialist cheesemongers Neal’s Yard Dairy. His job took him to New York City, where he encountered brewers with a similar sense of artisanship and passion as the small-scale cheesemakers he already knew. Returning to London, he became a homebrewer and London Amateur Brewers member, then turned professional as the Kernel, originally with a 6.5 hl brewhouse in a Druid Street arch shared with a cheesemaker and a cheese and charcuterie importer.

Evin thus became the inadvertent founder not only of the Bermondsey ‘beer mile’ but also of the capital’s taproom scene by selling to the public from the rear of the arch on Saturdays alongside several neighbouring businesses. He also helped set up the London Brewers Alliance in May 2010 which in turn contributed to the growth of many other breweries.

Evin O’Riordan of The Kernel brewery, photographed at the old Druid Street brewery in 2011.

In March 2012, the Kernel relocated with several of its neighbours to a run of arches further east at Spa Terminus, with the original kit given to Partizan. The original arch is now occupied by baker and patissier Comptoir Gourmand.

The Kernel’s new home at Arch 11 Dockley Road was equipped with a 32 hl brewhouse, and additional fermenters and a bottling line have since been installed, and in late 2014 the Kernel became the first to restore the practice of ageing in oak tuns to London brewing by buying several Belgian-style foeders. Production is currently around 10,000 hl a year.

A London classic, Kernel Imperial Brown Stout London 1856

Following problems with overcrowding, the brewery closed its taproom in 2017 while retaining a takeaway shop, but in late 2019, in a much-welcomed move, it opened a new purpose-built taproom in Arch 7 a few doors away. Saturday morning bottle sales continued from Arch 11 for a while but in 2021 the bottle shop was relocated to the taproom: the brewery arch itself is no longer open to the public.

On 8 August 2024, the Kernel relocated its taproom and bottle shop round the corner to a retail unit on the ground floor of a new block of flats. This had long been the intention, to resolve the anomaly that the taproom provided a drink-in service while other businesses at Spa Terminus sold only provisions to take away.

Beers are keg and bottle conditioned, the latter in 330 ml, 500 ml and 750 ml sizes, with some cask. They are often variants on basic recipes, such as pale ales with changing single hop varieties and mixed fermentation saisons with various fruits. Cask was introduced at the taproom following the lockdowns in 2021 and is occasionally available at other outlets.

Updated 21 October 2024.

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Howling Hops Brewery

Includes information for Short Stack.

Howling Hops, London E9

Cock Tavern
Brewpub, brewing suspended
315 Mare Street E8 1EJ (Hackney)
First sold beer: 24 July 2012 (as Howling Hops)
Brewing suspended: by end 2019 (as Short Stack)

Howling Hops Tank bar
Brewpub
9 Queens Yard E9 5EN (Tower Hamlets)
howlinghops.co.uk
First sold beer: June 2015

The Cock Tavern, a classic corner pub a few steps from the famous Empire music hall and Hackney’s ‘cultural quarter’, was reopened in 2012 by Pete Holt, owner of the Southampton Arms. The new venture included a 6.5 hl house brewery in the cellar, previously used by Camden Town at the Horseshoe pub in Hampstead. Named Howling Hops as a nod to blues musician Howlin’ Wolf, it brewed over 100 different beers in its first two years and was soon creating interest far beyond the pub under the supervision of brewer Tim O’Rourke.

Tanks at Howling Hops Tank Bar, London E9

In June 2015, brewing operations relocated to a new brewpub in an upcycled warehouse at Hackney Wick billed as the UK’s first ‘tank bar’. Here, a much bigger 25 hl kit from Bavarian Brewing Technologies is used to fill a battery of 10 1,000 l conditioning tanks lined up behind the bar from which beer is poured directly.

The kit at the Cock remained in place, rented by the pub’s former assistant manager Ian Morton as the Maregade brewery. This moved out in November 2017 and subsequently closed. Early in 2018, Howling Hops renewed the brewing license at the Cock with the intention of reinstating brewing for specials, some of them served using a cut-down version of the tank system, under the name Short Stack. But thanks to the limited space in the cellar and demand at the Tank Bar, activity was intemittent and had lapsed by 2019.

Howling Hops beers are sold from tank at Hackney Wick, and in keg, can and sometimes cask outside it, both at other outlets in the group and elsewhere.

Updated 11 December 2021.

SALT London (Ossett Brewery)

SALT London, London SE!8

Includes information for Hop Stuff Brewery

Brewery moved outside London, planned brewpub
Unit 9, 35 White Hart Avenue SE28 0GU (Greenwich)
First sold beer: August 2018 (as Hop Stuff)
October 2018 (SALT Beer Factory at Shipley, West Yorkshire)
Brewing suspended: April 2019
Brewing restarted: December 2019
Brewing suspended: March 2020
Brewing restarted: December 2021 (as SALT London)
Ceased brewing in London: May 2023

Hop Stuff Brewery
Original site: 7 Gunnery Terrace SE18 6SW (Greenwich)
First sold beer: November 2013 (at original site)

London regained one of its larger craft brewers in December 2021 when West Yorkshire brewer SALT Beer Factory bought the former Hop Stuff brewery in Thamesmead and its associated bars in Woolwich and Deptford from multinational Molson Coors. By early December the bars had already been rebranded and test brews and flavour matching had commenced, with commercial brewing restarted by March 2022.

SALT is a contemporary craft-slanted offshoot of Ossett Brewery. This began behind a pub in Ossett, West Yorkshire, in 1998 before expanding to a much more substantial facility in a nearby industrial unit in June 2005. The original SALT Beer Factory opened in 2018 as a ‘craft’-focused brewpub in one of the historic buildings on the World Heritage Site at Saltaire near Bradford, and quickly established a good reputation. It was looking to expand its business in London and the south of England, so the Hop Stuff deal seemed a good fit.

SALT continued to brew on its original site but planned to transfer production of its biggest-selling core brands, notably Jute Session IPA and Huckabuck NEIPA, to London. The five-vessel 70 hl brewhouse was designed to be steam-heated: the steam plant was never commissioned under Hop Stuff or Coors, with a temporary generator used instead, but was finally commissioned under SALT’s ownership.

The revival proved short-lived, as following a failure to agree a new lease on the property, brewing ceased in May 2023, with production once again concentrated in Yorkshire. SALT continues to operate the former Hop Stuff bars and there are long-term plans to revive London brewing on a small scale by converting one of them into a brewpub.

Brewhouse at SALT London.

Hop Stuff Brewery

Hop Stuff was created by ex-City worker James Yeomans, who learned to brew at Grainstore in Rutland, with his wife Emma. It grew largely through crowdfunding, with 71 investors securing the first facility, a 16 hl kit from Oban Ales, in a listed former warehouse on what was then the newly redeveloped Woolwich Arsenal complex.

An ad-hoc taproom at the brewery was succeeded in late 2015 by a bar on another part of the Arsenal site. Further crowdfunding in 2017 financed an ambitious upgrade to a much bigger site on former arsenal land near Belmarsh prison in West Thamesmead, increasing capacity to a potential 15,000 hl a year. Two more bars were added, in Deptford in December 2017 and outside London in Ashford, Kent in May 2018, with still more crowdfunding.

The business began to unravel in 2019, with production abruptly halted in April when staff were locked out by the landlord following problems with duty and rent payments. In July, James announced a pre-pack administration deal selling the business to US-Canadian group Molson Coors, owner of Carling and Sharp’s, which became the last of the major multinationals active in the UK to buy into a new London brewery – unfortunately with the loss of over £1.5 million to around 1,000 crowdfunding investors. James oversaw the transition but left before production restarted in December.

In the event, Coors managed 25 brews before the Covid-19 lockdowns struck in March 2020 and the brewery was mothballed. It was put on the market in August 2021 and subsequently bought by SALT as explained above. Coors retained the Hop Stuff brands with the possibility they could be brewed elsewhere, but they seem to have been quietly forgotten.

Updated 18 December 2023.

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Hammerton Brewery

Hammerton Brewery, London N7

Brewery
8 Roman Way Industrial Estate, 149 Roman Way N7 8XH (Islington)
hammertonbrewery.co.uk
First sold beer: 30 April 2014

Former IT business analyst Lee Hammerton had already made plans to fill an obvious gap in the market by starting a brewery near his home in Islington when he discovered he was distantly related to a defunct London brewing dynasty which once owned a Hammerton brewery in Stockwell (below). The new Hammerton, which has doubled capacity since opening, occupies several units alongside rather than underneath the Overground at Caledonian Road and Barnsbury station, with a 25 hl brewhouse including components from Malrex and SSV.

The first head brewer was Sam Dickison, who went on to found Boxcar. He was succeeded by ex-Paulaner employee Daniel Fluess and, most recently, Charlotte Cook, formerly of Truman’s. As well as a taproom at the brewery, since April 2017 Hammerton has had its own pub closer to central Islington at Highbury, known as the House of Hammerton.

The bar at Hammerton’s taproom.

Beers are brewed for keg and can, with some in cask.

The Stockwell Brewery was founded in 1730, close to local springs (16 Stockwell Green SW9 9JF, Lambeth). It was run by Lee’s ancestor Charles Hammerton in the late 19th century and in 1938 became likely the first brewery in the world to put real oysters into stout. Watney bought it out in 1951, primarily for its lucrative off license chain rather than its pubs, which were sold on to Charrington. Brewing ceased, although the site remained in use as a bottling plant for a while before being redeveloped as housing. The brands eventually passed to Heineken, and Lee has now had the Dutch group’s claim to the trademark revoked on the grounds of non-use.

Updated 10 December 2021.

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Hackney Brewery

Hackney Brewery, London E17

Brewery
Original site: 358 Laburnum Street E2 8BB (Hackney)
Current site: 10 Lockwood Way E17 5RB (Waltham Forest)
hackneybrewery.co.uk
First sold beer: June 2012 (at original site)

Former homebrewers Peter Hills and Jon Swain both worked at Islington pub the Charles Lamb when they decided to join the growing ranks of East London brewers in 2011. They began with a small 8 hl kit which they ended up using twice a day to fill the growing number of fermenters squeezed into their railway arch under the Kingsland viaduct.

In 2015 the brewery expanded into a neighbouring arch and in 2016 was reconfigured following advice from consultants, with a new 20 hl brewhouse fabricated to the bespoke designs of Jon and head brewer Darren Walker. Further tanks were added to raise production to 5,000 hl a year.

With no space to increase production further nor for a taproom, the brewery began looking for a new site. In November 2020, the business moved into an industrial unit in the rapidly growing brewing hotspot of Blackhorse Lane, Walthamstow, immediately opposite Wild Card. A well-appointed taproom, known as the High Hill Taproom, opened here following the end of the lockdowns in May 2021. With much redevelopment in the area, the council is keen to turn the street into a ‘destination’ over the next few years.

Jon Swain pictured at Hackney’s original site.

Nearly all Hackney beers are sold in keg and can. Regular cask beers were discontinued early in 2018 though a small amount is still sold to selected pubs and bars.

Updated 10 December 2021.

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Gipsy Hill Brewing Co (Sunrise Alliance)

Gipsy Hill Brewing, London SE27

Brewery
Unit 11, 160 Hamilton Road SE27 9SF (Lambeth)
gipsyhillbrewing.com
First sold beer: July 2014

One of London’s biggest independent breweries, Gipsy Hill has a target to grow output to 24,000 hl in the next few years. Its footprint on the industrial estate in the like-named neighbourhood it calls home has grown from one to six units.

The credit lies with the three characters shown on the logo: founders Charlie Shaw (ex-Five Points), former City worker Sam McMeekin and head brewer Simon Wood, recruited from Dorset’s Piddle brewery. The first kit was a relatively generous 25 hl Malrex and the company was soon adding extra fermenters and warehousing.

Charlie Shaw (left) and Sam McMeekin of Gipsy Hill.

Disaster struck in 2016 when the brewing floor began to collapse, but this proved a turning point with investment in a new high-quality floor and an upgrade the following year to a 60 hl brewhouse with a pilot kit and a canning line. A dedicated taproom opened in 2018 across the yard from the brewery itself. The brewery’s pub the Douglas Fir, on the other side of Crystal Palace Park, opened as a popup in a former shop in 2016 but soon became permanent.

In April 2021, Gipsy Hill became London’s first employee-owned brewery, but on 30 October 2024 it confirmed it had entered a ‘strategic partnership’ with brewing group Sunrise Alliance, without which it ‘would almost certainly be looking at administration’. The company promises that the brewery will continue to function as before, on the same site, with co-founder Sam McMeekin still in charge.

The new owner originated in 2006 as St Peter’s brewery near Bungay, and began expanding in 2023 with the acquisition of Curious Brew in Ashford, Kent, which already owned the Wild Beer brand. A few weeks before the Gipsy Hill deal, Sunrise bought another London brewer, Portobello.

Beers are in keg and can, with some hand bottling for barrel-aged specials and occasional one-off casks.

Updated 31 October 2024.

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Fuller’s Griffin Brewery (Asahi)

Fuller’s Griffin Brewery, London W4

Formerly Fuller, Smith & Turner. Includes information for the original Lamb Brewery

Brewery
Chiswick Lane South W4 2QB (Hounslow)
fullersbrewery.co.uk
First sold beer: 1701 (as Mawson’s)

Shockwaves ran through the London brewing scene on 25 January 2019 when Fuller, Smith & Turner, London’s biggest brewery and its oldest by far, announced it was following in the footsteps of former fellow London brewer Young’s and many other old-established UK family breweries by ditching brewing to concentrate on pubs.

The beer business, including the historic Griffin brewery, was sold for £250 million to Asahi of Japan, becoming its second brewery in London after Meantime, while Fuller’s shifted focus to its pub estate, where 87% of its profit had been generated. Asahi has undertaken to continue brewing at the Griffin, which is now London’s only historic brewery in continuous commercial production: all the others were founded or revived in the 21st century.

The famous Wisteria on the brewer’s house at Fuller’s.

Brewing on this riverside site on Chiswick Mall can be traced back to the 1650s domestic brewery attached to stately home Bedford House on Chiswick Mall. Thomas Mawson founded the Griffin brewery as a commercial operation in 1701, and the Fuller family became involved in 1829. The currently quoted founding date of 1845 is when a new partnership took over, involving John Bird Fuller, Henry Smith (formerly of Ind & Smith in Romford, later Ind Coope), and John Turner.

Fuller Smith & Turner became a limited company in 1929. Descendants of the original partners remained involved until the recent sale and retain their position in the successor pub company.

As one of only two independent breweries left in London as the beer consumer movement gathered pace in the 1970s, Fuller’s was persuaded not to convert to keg production and to revive traditional cask conditioning and handpump dispense. It grew substantially from an output of around 100,000 hl and an estate of 100 pubs to 550,000 hl and 400 pubs just before the Asahi deal.

Chiswick’s other brewery, the Lamb, once a Fuller’s store.

In 2005, Fuller’s bought another old-established family brewer, Gales in Horndeam, Hampshire, and closed it the following year, retaining some of the brands. In February 2018, the brewery bought Dark Star, based in Partridge Green near Horsham, West Sussex, with the intention of retaining it as a working brewery, though its flagship Hophead was soon shifted to Chiswick. Both these assets were included in the Asahi deal.

Dark Star’s roots go back to London in 1982 when Pitfield’s Brewery was founded by microbrewing pioneers Rob Jones and Martin Kemp in Pitfield Street, Hoxton. Their best-known beer was a porter called Dark Star which became the first microbrew to win Champion Beer of Britain in 1987, and when in 1994 Rob collaborated with the landlord of the Evening Star pub in Brighton to set up a microbrewery in the cellar, he revived the name.

Dark Star played a major role in popularising the use of New World hops in the UK and expanded twice before the Fuller’s acquisition, though Rob left in 2016. Sadly, Asahi opted to close Dark Star in December 2022. Originally, its brands other than Hophead transferred to Meantime, though that brewery is also due to close in 2024, with all production centred at Chiswick.

Fuller’s brewhouse was renewed in the mid-1990s with a modern twin mash tun system which brews in 520 hl batches, and nearly all fermentation is now in cylindro-conical closed fermenters. In July 2018 a new 16 hl pilot brewery was installed as part of a major refurbishment of the visitor centre. Drink-in facilities here were added in 2021, replacing longstanding brewery tap the Mawson Arms around the corner. World-renowned brewing director John Keeling retired in October 2018 though still acts as a brewery ambassador.

Under the new arrangement, the Griffin still supplies beers to Fuller’s pubs, while Asahi is free to use Fuller’s trademarks to market the beer elsewhere. The Japanese company has said it respects the brands and their heritage and is particularly keen to increase international sales.  But the deal has inevitably raised worries about the future of the site, which given its location could be extremely valuable if redeveloped.

Beers are in cask, keg, can, bottle conditioned and in filtered bottles, with some minicasks. Several of the core brands are related through the technique of ‘parti-gyling’, taking multiple runnings at different gravities from the same basic mash and tweaking the hop additions. All Fuller’s-branded beers are fermented using a longstanding house yeast, while Gale’s and Dark Star beers use different yeasts.

Things to see

As London’s only remaining working historic brewery and on an attractive riverside site in the Old Chiswick Conservation Area, Fuller’s is particularly worth a visit. It’s possible to view some of the historic buildings from the street or the non-gated section of the brewery yard. The site with its prominent branding provides a landmark on the busy Great West Road (A4) on the approach to the Hogarth Roundabout, so called because artist and illustrator William Hogarth (1697-1794), well-known to brewing historians for his satirical diptych of Gin Lane and Beer Street, lived in a house nearby, now open as a visitor attraction.

The brewery’s current main entrance with its decorative ironwork opens onto Mawson Lane, the sliproad parallel to the main road on its south side, with several late Victorian industrial buildings visible. The corner building to the left forms one end of a terrace of five town houses which continue round the corner along Chiswick Lane South (110-118, W4 2QA), built around 1715 for brewery founder Thomas Mawson and now Grade II* listed. The poet Alexander Pope (1688-1744) lived at the corner building between 1716-1719 and is commemorated with a blue plaque. The small two-storey Grade II-listed Garden House, which presents a gable end to Mawson Lane just to the right, may have been built for him, though was much altered in the 19th century.

Around 1897, the corner house was converted to a brewery tap, initially the Fox and Dogs, later the Fox and Hounds. It then acquired a second name, the Mawson Arms, though both names continued in use, perhaps as a legacy of two sections of the pub having separate ale and spirits licenses. On the deal with Asahi, the pub remained with the legacy pub company, who opted not to reopen it following the 2020 lockdowns, though it was advertised as to let in 2024 so may yet reopen under a new operator.

Along Chiswick Lane South you pass the brewery shop and visitor centre, with the pilot brewery visible behind glass at the back. This is the starting point for the highly recommended brewery tours (book in advance, charge payable). Further along is the particularly attractive cobbled yard with a terrace of three 18th century houses (130-134 Mawson Row) wrapped around the corner.

A little further into the yard on the right is the Brewer’s House, actually built as the owner’s house sometime in the 18th century and later used as offices and a boardroom. The wisteria climbing its walls was grown from the earliest cuttings to arrive in Britain from China in 1816: another cutting went to Kew Gardens but died. Opposite is the Hock Cellar, a former wines and spirits store named after the brewery’s mild ale, now used as part of the visitor experience. It’s an atmospheric space with numerous interesting exhibits but is usually only open to guests on brewery tours.

The rest of the site is also only accessible to tour guests. Although today the brewery uses almost entirely modern equipment, numerous pieces of vintage kit have been retained. The oldest vessel is an 1823 domed London copper with calandria, embedded in brick. Other highlights include 1930s grist mills which are still in use, an 1863 mash tun with an unusual segmented copper lid, a smaller Victorian copper once used for melting brewing sugar, and a double drop fermenter with a round wooden vessel arranged over a copper square equipped with a water-based attemperator.

The small buildings by the directors’ car park now used for technical services are some of the earliest on the site, predating commercial brewing: they originated as outbuildings for the houses fronting Chiswick Mall.

Back in the public realm, continuing along Chiswick Lane South towards the river Thames you pass a succession of brewery walls and buildings on the right. Turn right to follow the Thames Path upstream along Chiswick Mall, where numerous grand houses, many of them listed, back onto the brewery’s southern perimeter. Two adjoining imposing Grade II*-listed mansions, Eynham House and Bedford House (W4 2PJ), are set a little back from the street about halfway along to the next junction. Originally a single property occupied this plot, Bedford House, built for the Russell family, earls (later dukes) of Bedford, around 1650. Brewing began in an outbuilding at the rear of this, perhaps one of those still in brewery use for technical services. The house was rebuilt in the early 18th century and split into two. Note that particularly high tides sometimes render Chiswick Mall impassable.

Turning away from the river again at the next corner along Church Street, you pass Grade II*-listed St Nicholas Church on the left. This early 14th century parish church was rebuilt 1882-84 with funds largely donated by brewery partner Henry Smith. Hogarth is buried in the churchyard.

A little further along on the right, set back from Church Street around a narrow yard (W4 2PD), are the remains of a second Chiswick brewery, the Lamb, dating from at least the 1770s and once at least as big as the Griffin. Since at least 1790 it was owned and operated by the Sich family and was later known as Sich & Co. In the 1850s some of the family lived in Bedford House. The tower brewhouse built around 1900 still stands, though hasn’t brewed since 1920 when Sich & Co merged with the Isleworth Brewing Company, later absorbed by Watney.

The Lamb site was subsequently used by Fuller’s for storage and later by the Standard Yeast Company but is now offices. The pretty 18th century pink stucco and weatherboard building on the left corner here, now known as Burlington Corner, is the former Lamb brewery tap and likely where brewing began on the site. On the opposite corner is a charming 16th-century timber-framed building, The Old Burlington, one of the oldest in the area. This was also once a pub, the Burlington Arms, but both it and the Lamb lost their licenses in 1924 following the brewery closure.

The Lamb name was briefly reused between 2012-13 for a brewpub in central Chiswick: see Brewhouse and Kitchen.

Updated 21 May 2024.

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Fourpure Brewing Company (In Good Company)

Fourpure Brewing, London SE16

Closed brewery
25 Bermondsey Trading Estate, Rotherhithe New Road SE16 3LL (Southwark)
fourpure.com
First sold beer: October 2013
Ceased brewing: September 2024

Always one of London’s most ambitious new breweries, Fourpure became one of the biggest. Founded as the fourth Bermondsey brewery by former City technology firm executive Dan Lowe and his brother Tom, both homebrewers, it rejected the railway arch model in favour of the less restricted space of a conventional industrial unit between the lines at the southeast end of the strip, near Millwall FC’s New Den stadium. The name refers to the four traditional ingredients of beer.

The Lowes recruited John Driebergen, formerly of Meantime, as head brewer and installed a 30 hl kit bought second-hand from Purity in Warwickshire, alongside a 1 hl pilot kit. From the start, the brewery was equipped with a canning line in a nearby unit, one of the first in a new London brewery.

It subsequently expanded several times, with additional warehousing, a 2017 enlargement into an adjacent unit to make space for a new 50 hl German-built GEA Craft Star brewhouse and three outdoor silos for base malts and spent grain. The old kit was sold to Brockley Brewery for its expanded site at Hither Green.

In July 2018, Fourpure became the sixth London craft brewer acquired by a multinational, the Japanese group Kirin, as part of its Australian-originated Lion Little World Beverages subsidiary, though with the same management as before. Further expansion into two more adjacent units followed in summer 2019, one of them entirely occupied by an extensive taproom.

In 2022, John Driebergen and his assistant Ollie Parker left to found Great Beyond.

Following the trend of multinational breweries reducing their craft-style interests in the UK, in August 2022 Lion Little World sold all its UK breweries, including Little Creatures Regents Canal in London and Magic Rock in Huddersfield. The new owner was In Good Company, also known as Odyssey Inns, founded by Stephen Cox, a co-founder of Utopian Brewing in Crediton, Devon, who stepped down from his role there to run the new group.

Fourpure was for some years also the major production centre for Big Drop cuckoo-brewed low alcohol beers, and in May 2023 invested in that company.

In Good Company announced in August 2024 it was closing the brewery and taproom, and shifting production of both Fourpure and Big Drop to Magic Rock. CEO Steve Cox expressed regret at the closure and confirmed there would be job losses, but said it was necessary to ‘safeguard the brand for the future’. The subsidiary that owns the Fourpure brand has since been put into voluntary administration.

Beers were in keg and can, with much sold through supermarket chains.

Updated 21 October 2024.

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40FT Brewery

40FT Brewery, London E8

Brewery
Bootyard, Abbot Street E8 3DP (Hackney)
40ftbrewery.com
First sold beer: 5 July 2015

The brainchild of German-born former London Fields and Truman’s head brewer Ben Ott and three homebrewing business partners, brothers Fredrik and Andreas Pettersson and current chief executive Steve Ryan, this outfit was named after its home in a converted 40 foot (12.2 m) shipping container. It’s located in a former car park managed by the Bootstrap economic development charity behind Dalston’s Arcola Theatre, where several other small and lively businesses flourish, including a bakery and restaurant. Other containers have since been added, including two converted into a taproom in 2019, which deservedly won a regional SIBA award in 2020. The site is ultimately due for redevelopment but that’s several years away.

Ben Ott of 40FT with horizontal tanks.

The brewery uses a 10 hl kit from Oban Ales, old-fashioned open fermenters and, unusually for a UK brewery, several horizontal lagering tanks: most beers on sale in the taproom are dispensed direct from these. There’s also a pilot kit for small runs. Unpasteurised and unfiltered beers are brewed for tank and keg, with canning using a mobile line.

Updated 24 November 2021

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