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London brewers 1971
1971 vintage Evening Standard Pub of the Year plaque still in situ in Fulham. Pic: Edwardx, Wikipedia Creative Commons.
The 2nd edition of The CAMRA Guide to London’s Best Beer, Pubs and Bars, published on 2 July 2015, contains a lengthy listing of over 70 breweries in Greater London, the vast majority of which have sprung up in the years since the inaugural edition was published in 2011. The new book also makes clear this unexpected flowering is only the latest episode in the long story of brewing in the city that for much of the 18th and 19th century was the beer capital of the world. So I thought it would be interesting on the eve of publication to turn the clock back and look at London brewing as it was back in 1971.
Why 1971? That year is something of a turning point in British brewing. The 1950s and 1960s had brought turbulent times to the industry, which was swept by ‘merger mania’ and the emergence of new national groups. The situation had stablised by the early 1970s, with the ‘Big Seven’ brewers (Allied, Bass, Courage, Guinness, Scottish & Newcastle, Watney and Whitbread) now firmly in control and well-advanced in their plans to supplant traditional cask ale with nationally marketed pasteurised keg ale and mediocre ‘Continental’ lager. All of these groups were in some way active in London.
But 1971 also saw sporadic resistance to the growing homogeneity of the brewing industry articulate itself through the foundation of the Campaign for the Revitalisation of Ale, soon to be renamed the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA). This presaged a new and more self-conscious appreciation of beer both nationally and internationally, and the emergence of small scale commercial breweries in numbers not seen since the Victorian era. But in 1971 all that was still some years away – there had been almost no openings of new British breweries since the 1930s, though plenty of closures.
At the beginning of 1971, there were 11 commercial breweries operating in Greater London: Charrington, Courage, Fuller’s, Guinness, Ind Coope, Mann (by then a Watney subsidiary), Tolly Cobbold, Truman, Watney, Whitbread and Young’s. This total is much smaller than today’s, though around the same as in the mid-2000s before the current boom really took off. The complexion of these breweries, however, was very different indeed from today’s crop. All were much larger operations than is typical today: veteran London brewer Derek Prentice estimates that back then London brewers between them produced over 10 million hl a year, while almost seven times the number of breweries today barely manage 1.5 million hl. All were well-established concerns, most tracing their origins back at least as far as the first industrial heyday of London brewing in the 18th century. All but one shared the vertically integrated structure which was the norm in British breweries from the late 19th century until the early 1990s, selling much of their output through their own pubs.
Today, all but two London brewers are independently owned, but back in 1971 the national groups dominated the landscape. Courage, Watney Mann and Whitbread had grown from historic London breweries, while other London names were involved in the mergers that created Allied and Bass Charrington. All these companies had both breweries and extensive pub estates in London. Dublin-based Guinness – the exception among big breweries as it owned no pubs – supplied southern England from its London subsidiary. The seventh of the ‘Big Seven’, Scottish and Newcastle, had no brewing connections in London but owned some prime pubs.
Truman’s was the sole surviving large scale independent from the golden age, but its ongoing struggle to retain that status was shortly to fail. Two much smaller independents, Fuller’s and Young’s, brewed largely for relatively localised pub estates. All these breweries were standalone operations – there were then only a tiny handful of historic brewpubs left in the UK and this particular business model seems to have been abandoned in London even earlier than elsewhere, not to be restored until the Goose and Firkin opened in 1979 as the first example of what became a major resurgence in UK brewpubs.
Looking back across the upheavals of the intervening decades that brought about the completely transformed brewing landscape of today, it’s striking to note how much kinder history has been to the independents. Of the big brands brewed in London back then, Guinness is the only one that retains its familiarity and cachet today, though its production has once again been centralised in its home city of Dublin. Fuller’s is the only brewery to have retained true continuity, with the same company structure, the same family ownership and the same site – though it’s now much bigger and has a national brand of its own. Watney’s former Stag brewery in Mortlake is the only other actual brewery still in operation on the same site, now under changed and multinational ownership and brewing even less distinguished beer.
Young’s is still a familiar name on the London scene although the owning company has finally become a non-brewing pubco, with the brands produced at the Charles Wells brewery in Bedford, alongside those of Courage – the only major Big Seven brand of the day besides Guinness to retain a shred of credibility. Since August 2013, East London has once again had a brewery under the Truman name, although aside from ownership of the brand and considerable respect for the history and heritage there is no connection with the original brewery. Meanwhile once ubiquitous brands like Ind Coope Double Diamond, Charrington’s Toby, Whitbread Trophy and – most notorious of all – Watney’s Red have been consigned, perhaps deservedly, to the ullage of history.
Note the postcodes given below are current ones indicating the location of the sites for those interested in finding them. Postcodes were being introduced to London in 1971 but the actual codes of the day were very likely different. The boundaries of the London boroughs have not changed significantly since 1971.
Charrington Brewery (E1, Tower Hamlets) |
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A classic Charrington Toby jug, originally used as a logo by the even more historic Red Lion brewery.
National subsidiary (Bass Charrington) 129 Mile End Road E1 4BG First sold beer: Prior to 1757 Stopped brewing: 1975
Robert Westfield entered the brewing industry as an employee in 1738, and by 1757 had set up his own brewery at Bethnal Green in partnership with Joseph Moss. In 1770 the partners built the Anchor Brewery on a larger site on the Mile End Road near Stepney Green. John Charrington joined the partnership in 1766 and he and his brother Henry were in full control by 1783. Their descendants continued to manage the brewery into the 19th century, and a limited company was registered in 1897.
Among other acquisitions, Charrington took over and closed the historic Red Lion brewery at St Katherine’s Docks in 1933, inheriting the well-known Toby jug logo of previous owners Hoare & Co. The Red Lion was then said to be the oldest brewery in Britain and one of the oldest continuous businesses in London, with a documented history back to 1492: it played a major role in the perfection of porter in the 1730s when then-owner Humphrey Parsons became likely the first brewer to mature the beer in large oak vats.
In 1963, Charrington’s independence fell to the brewery group generally regarded as kicking off ‘merger mania’, United Breweries, established by colourful entrepreneur E P “Eddie” Taylor, of Canadian Breweries, originally as a vehicle to market Carling lager in the UK. In 1967 Charrington United merged with Bass Mitchells & Butlers (itself the product of a 1961 merger between the historic Bass brewery in Burton-upon-Trent and large regional Birmingham brewer Mitchells & Butlers) to form Bass Charrington, then the largest brewery in the UK.
In the early 1970s Charrington was still brewing some cask brands including a 3.9% IPA, the weaker Crown Bitter and a mild but was mainly functioning to distribute the group’s keg products through its pubs. In one of the big brewers’ earliest moves to dismantle their capacity in London, brewing ceased in 1975, though the brands remained available for a while with production transferred to M&B in Birmingham. Bass Charrington retained the brewery offices for some years as their London headquarters and these buildings still stand, though the site was largely redeveloped as a retail park in the 1980s.
In 2000 the brewing interests of Bass Charrington were sold to Interbrew of Leuven, Belgium, which has since become AB InBev following mergers with Brazil’s AmBev and St Louis, Missouri-based giant Anheuser-Busch. Following intervention from the European Union competition regulator, the Burton brewery and some of the brands including Charrington were sold on in 2001 to Coors of Golden, Colorado, now Molson Coors (MillerCoors in the US). The current owner has occasionally been known to commission Toby Bitter in keg and cask from other brewers in the UK, while Toby Ale was brewed by Molson in Québec at least into the mid-2000s (historically Molson was a rival to Canadian Breweries but had merged with its successor company Carling O’Keefe in 1989). The former Bass Charrington pub arm eventually renamed itself Mitchells & Butlers after the Birmingham brewery, which was closed by Coors in 2002.
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Courage Brewery (SE1, Southwark) |
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Courage Brewery, London SE1
National Anchor Brewhouse, Horsleydown SE1 2LY First sold beer: 16th century Stopped brewing: 1981
The Anchor Brewhouse occupied the riverside at Horselydown, immediately to the east of where Tower Bridge now stands, perhaps from the 16th century. It was owned at one point by a Flemish brewer, and in 1787 sold by then-owners the Ellis Family to a consortium led by John Courage, an ambitious shipping agent born in Aberdeen of French Huguenot descent. At that stage most big London brewers specialised in porter, but Courage promoted fresher ‘running ale’ styles. From 1797 the firm was known as Courage & Donaldson but by the time it was registered in 1888 it was simply Courage. The site had by then expanded significantly and was rebuilt in 1894-95.
Just upriver on Park Street, Bankside, was another celebrated London brewery, confusingly known as the Anchor Brewery rather than Brewhouse. It was built by James Monger in 1616 on the site of William Shakespeare’s original Globe theatre, which had burned down three years previously (the current Globe, overlooking the river 230 m to the north, is a 1997 replica). This Anchor was developed by the Thrale family into one of London’s most celebrated porter breweries in the 18th century. In 1781, writer and lexicographer Samuel Johnson helped sell the brewery on behalf of Henry Thrale’s widow, Hester, famously promoting the sale as “not just a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice”. The new Quaker owners, Barclay and Perkins (the former from the same family as the founders of Barclays Bank), turned it into what was once the biggest brewery in the world, a technological marvel of its day, and a mid-19th century visitor attraction. Its most famous beer was the potent Imperial Russian Stout, brewed originally for export from the end of the 18th century.
Barclay Perkins label. Pic: Ron Pattinson, barclayperkins.blogspot.co.uk.
In 1921, Barclay became the first large and established London brewer (and one of the first in Britain) to make a commitment to lager brewing, an activity that may well have caught the attention of Courage. In 1955 the Bermondsey brewer bought out its near neighbour to become Courage & Barclay, turning the Park Street site into a dedicated lager brewery three years later. By the beginning of the 1970s brewing had ceased, through storage and distribution continued on the site. By this time Courage had expanded into one of Britain’s Big Seven national brewers, and in 1981 it ceased all London production including at Horselydown, selling off both sites. It later took on Watney’s brewing interests and then merged with Scottish & Newcastle in 1995 to create the multinational Scottish Courage before being pecked apart by Carlsberg and Heineken in a hostile takoever in 2008, with the latter grabbing the British assets.
The Horselydown brewery still stands, now converted to luxury flats and offices, an early example of Docklands regeneration. There’s a plaque on the wall at 50 Shad Thames but the best view is from across the other side of Tower Bridge. The Park Street site was completely demolished and replaced by modern housing, though there are two plaques visible from Park Street SE1 9DZ. One of these commemorates a curious incident in 1850 when General Julius Haynau, known as the ‘Austrian butcher’ for his role in brutally suppressing rebellions, was recognised and beaten up by draymen while visiting the brewery.
Both brewery taps survive – the Anchor Tap (20A Horselydown Lane SE1 2LN) is now a Sam Smith pub which retains an unspoilt interior, while the Anchor Bankside (34 Park Street SE1 9EF) is part of the Taylor Walker chain and popular with tourists. Wells & Young’s bought the brands from Heineken and now brew some of the beers in Bedford, including, occasionally, Imperial Russian Stout.
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Ind Coope (RM1, Havering) |
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Ind Coope logo on vintage beermat.
National subsidiary (Allied Breweries) Star Brewery, Romford RM1 1 AN First sold beer: 1708 Stopped brewing: 1993
Romford was a rural Essex market town in 1708 when George Cardon started brewing at the Star Inn. In 1799 the business was bought by Edward Ind in partnership with John Grosvenor, who later sold his share to John Smith. It was Smith’s son Henry who, along with his brother-in-law, head brewer John Turner, quit the firm in 1845 to take over the Griffin brewery in Chiswick, creating Fuller Smith & Turner (above). C E Coope joined the firm in 1856, when it became Ind Coope, the name under which it was registered as a limited company in 1886. Like several other London breweries, Ind Coope created a Burton-upon-Trent subsidiary, and in 1934 merged with Allsopp, the brewery responsible for bringing India Pale Ale to Burton in direct competition with Hodgson’s in Bow.
In 1959 the company took over Taylor Walker in Limehouse E14 (founded 1730 in Stepney), closing it the next year. A year later it became the heart of one of the Big Seven breweries by merging with Tetley Walker in Leeds and Ansells in Birmingham to create Allied Breweries, then the largest drinks company in Europe and the second biggest beer producer in UK, owning 11% of the nation’s pubs. By now Burton was the main plant, brewing flagship keg beer Double Diamond, but cask production of bitter and mild continued at Romford into the early 1970s when the brewery started to concentrate on keg/canned lager-ale hybrid Long Life.
In 1979 the brewery started to rebrand its pubs in London and the southeast with the names of breweries it had long since shut down, including Taylor Walker alongside Benskins (Watford) and Friary Meux (Guildford). The owning group became Allied Lyons then Allied Domecq, which sold 50% of its brewing interest to Carlsberg in 1993, at which point the Romford site was deemed surplus to requirements and closed. Carlsberg bought the rest of the shares in 1997 and sold the pubs to Punch in 1999.
Most of the brewery has been demolished and the site rebuilt as a shopping centre, but a chimney and façades are preserved and one of the buildings is now the Havering Museum (19 High Street RM1 1JU). The managed pubs passed to the Spirit group in 2011, and the Taylor Walker name was revived a second time to rebrand some of them: Greene King has since bought up the group. Few remnants of the beer brands remain, though Long Life occasionally emerged in the 2000s from Carlsberg’s lager plant in Northampton.
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Mann Crossman & Paulin (E1, Tower Hamlets) |
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Mann’s beermat from less politically correct days.
National subsidiary (Watney Mann) Albion Brewery, Whitechapel Road E1 1BU First sold beer: 1808 Stopped brewing: 1979
In 1808, Richard Ivory, landlord of the Blind Beggar pub at Whitechapel, built an adjacent brewery, the Albion, which was sold a decade later to Philip Blake and James Mann, originally of the Strandbridge brewery in Lambeth which closed in 1821. Blake retired in 1826 and Mann ran the brewery on his own for 20 years, but in 1846 he financed expansion by going into partnership with Robert Crossman and Thomas Paulin. In the 1860s Mann’s became one of the London breweries to open a satellite in Burton-upon-Trent, but this was closed by end of the century, by which time the brewery was producing over 800,000 hl a year.
It also bought the the former Whitechapel Workhouse for conversion to a bottling plant, presaging something of a specialism in bottled beers which in the early 20th century focused particularly on a sweet bottled brown ale developed at the brewery. In 1958 Watney (see below) took control of Mann’s, eventually closing it in 1979.
Some of the buildings still stand, including the Blind Beggar, later notorious as the place where Ronnie Kray murdered George Cornell in 1966 (337 Whitechapel Road E1 1BU), while the White Hart pub opposite revived the local brewing tradition in June 2013. The rights to the Mann’s Brown brand arrived following a convoluted journey at Marston’s: the beer is still relatively widely available, though brewed some way outside London, at Banks’s in Wolverhampton.
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Tolly Cobbold Walthamstow (E17, Waltham Forest) |
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Pre-1972 Tolly Cobbold label listing its location as “Ipswich and London”.
Regional subsidiary (Tolly Cobbold) Albion Brewery, Whitechapel Road E1 1BU First sold beer: 1859 Stopped brewing: 1972
Founded in central Walthamstow by William Hawes, this operation was first known simply as the Walthamstow Brewery, and was renamed the Essex Brewery when it was bought by the Collier brothers in 1871, at a time this area still formed part of Essex. It was sold on again in 1920 to the Tollemache Brewery of Ipswich, which had been founded in 1856 as Charles Cullingham & Co, but had been in the hands of the Tollemache family since 1888. The family had ambitions to build a significant regional if not a national brewery, and the Walthamstow plant was put to use brewing Tolly brands for the lucrative London and southwest Essex markets, a function it continued to fulfill when its owner merged with Ipswich neighbours the Cobbold Cliff Brewery (a concern that dated back to Harwich in 1723) in 1957 to form Tolly Cobbold.
The company subsequently suffered mixed fortunes, and closed the Walthamstow brewery in 1972. It was later demolished, although the old Brewery Tap on Markhouse Road, converted to flats in 2009, is still recognisable. Tolly Cobbold’s London pubs were eventually sold to other breweries but some are still known locally as ‘Tolly’s’. The company passed through the not especially capable hands of Ellerman Lines then the Barclay Brothers, closed in 1989 and regenerated in 1991 as a microbrewery owned by former management. In this form it lasted just over a decade before being sold to Essex family brewery Ridley’s and closed in 2003. Three years later Ridley’s itself was bought and closed by emerging new national Greene King, which still occasionally uses the Tolly brand on seasonal beers brewed in Bury St Edmunds.
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Whitbread Brewery (EC1, City of London) |
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Whitbread’s well-known tankard logo on a beermat. The slogan might have rung hollow with fans of breweries that fell under the baleful shadow of the ‘Whitbread umbrella’.
National 52 Chiswell Street EC1Y 4SD First sold beer: 1742 Stopped brewing: 1976
Bedfordshire-born Samuel Whitbread was only 16 when in 1736 he apprenticed himself to a Clerkenwell brewer. Six years later he went into partnership with brothers Thomas and George Shewell at the Goat brewhouse in Old Street, at its junction with Whitecross Street. At first they brewed porter here, and ales at a brewhouse on the other side of Old Street in what’s now Central Street. But it was porter that everyone wanted, prompting Whitbread to create, in partnership with Thomas Shewell, what was likely the world’s first purpose-built porter brewery, a complete rebuild and expansion of a brewhouse called the Kings Head on Chiswell Street, a short walk south on the edge of the City.
Opened in 1750, the Chiswell Street brewery was by 1758 the biggest porter producer in Britain, with an output of 106,000 hl a year. By Whitbread’s death in 1796 it was turning out 330,000 hl. The famous Porter Tun Room was built between 1776-84 after fire destroyed its predecessor, at a scale sufficient to house the increasingly large vats used for maturing the beer, with a floor area of 778 square metres and the exposed timbers of a king-post roof, the widest unsupported timber span in London after Westminster Hall, over 18 m above. Even more remarkable were the vaults below, conceived by Whitbread as a more efficient and oxygen-proof alternative to the tuns: vast watertight cisterns lined with a special cement capable of resisting the beer’s acidity, applied by ship’s caulkers, with a total capacity of 20,000 hl or almost 3.4 million pints.
Inevitably tastes moved on and Whitbread diversified into other styles of beer. The last of the famous tuns was removed in 1900, though porter production – now by different methods and at declining strengths – continued until 1940. In the 1950s the brewery launched the so-called ‘Whitbread Umbrella’ in response to the wave of mergers then sweeping the industy, buying shares in smaller regional breweries and obtaining favourable trading agreements on the promise of protecting them from hostile takover. The umbrella might have shielded them from other brewers but not from Whitbread itself, as by the early 1970s most of these regionals had been absorbed, turning the City brewer into a major national presence with an estate of around almost 8,000 pubs and a portfolio of nationally-marketed brands, including European lager brands brewed under license in the UK like Heineken and Stella Artois.
Brewing ceased at Chiswell Street in 1976, though the building continued in use as the corporate headquarters until 2005. By then Whitbread had already sold its brewing interests to Stella brewer Interbrew in Belgium so it could concentrate on being a “branded leisure retailer”, operating among others the Premier Inn hotel chain. Interbrew is now part of the world’s biggest brewing group, Anheuser Busch InBev. The brewery still stands, now converted into the luxury Montcalm hotel and The Brewery conference and events venue – you can step inside the yard to admire the clock and other features. Whitbread tap the St Pauls Tavern is now a restaurant, the Chiswell Steet Dining Rooms, but the Porter Tun Room still has one of the biggest uninterrupted roof spans in London.
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Young & Co's Brewery (SW18, Wandsworth) |
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Beermat for Young’s flagship Bitter, better known as ‘Ordinary’.
Independent Ram Brewery, Wandsworth High Street SW18 4LB First sold beer: Before 1581 Stopped brewing: 2oo6
There’s a good case to be made that the Ram site, at Wandsworth near the mouth of Thames tributary the river Wandle, has the longest documented continuous history of brewing in Britain, and certainly in London. Nobody is quite sure when brewing began but an inn with the sign of a ram stood here at least as far back as 1533. Inns in those days often had breweries, though the first written records of commercial brewing date from 1581, when the landlord, Humphrey Langridge, not only sold beer to his guests but to other pubs and private houses.
The Young family bought the brewery in 1831, by which time it was a substantial operation with an estate of 80 pubs. In the 1860s they started to shift the focus from porter towards lighter, more sparkling beers, beginning the evolution of the pale bitter ales for which the Young’s name would become famous. The developing beer consumer movement of the 1970s and 1980s knew Young’s as a fortress of brewing tradition and a paragon of real ale virtue. The family retained close control and fiercely defended its independence. Young’s always kept the faith with traditional cask ales, retained wooden casks years after most of the industry had converted to aluminium, and still delivered locally using horse-drawn drays. It only finally retired the steam engines in 1976. In an echo of the ancient sign, a ram lived in the brewery yard as a mascot, and Young’s even had the Queen Mother pull its pints.
Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, the Queen Mother, pulls a pint of Young’s ‘Ordinary’ at the Queens Head, Stepney, in 1987.
So it came as a shock to many when, in 2006, chairman John Young admitted he’d let his head rule his heart as he announced Young’s was merging with Charles Wells and relocating all production to the latter’s big 1970s plant in Bedford. Rocketing property values and the challenges of modernising the cramped old site had finally undermined the case for staying. In a poignant twist, Young, a great-great-grandson of the firm’s founder, died aged 85 the very week his company brewed its last beer at the Ram.
The moment the redevelopment was announced, there was talk of a future new microbrewery on the site. Young’s employee John Hatch and some of his colleagues were determined that the lengthy record of continuous brewing should not be broken. John became site manager for the new owners, and as the buildings were stripped, scraped together a workable kit from bits and pieces, including tea urns and rubbish bins. He’s continued to brew non-commercially once a week pending the potential launch of a small brewery on the redeveloped site: see the Ram listing on the main London brewers page.
The redevelopment itself has been long delayed – the original plans became mired in local controversy, major planning disputes and funding troubles as the recession hit. Construction of the Ram Quarter, as it’s now known, under current owners, Chinese developer Greenland, eventually started in autumn 2014 so the old brewery is likely to remain a building site for several years yet. But the design preserves several historic buildings and includes new public space so future generations will still be able to appreciate how the Ram looked in its heyday.
At the time of the merger, the pubs were retained by the existing shareholders who in August 2011 sold their remaining shares in the merged brewery, Wells & Young’s, to partner Charles Wells. So Young’s today is just a pub chain, though for the time being at least it continues to buy its former brands from Wells on a rolling supply agreement. Meanwhile there’s no doubt that Young’s retreat from brewing in London helped trigger the massive growth in new breweries by inspiring others to fill the gap.
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“there were then only three operating brewpubs left in the UK” – actually, there were six, I believe, although a couple closed very soon afterwards, to leave four to appear in the first GBG
Barclay Perkins weren’t the first large established brewer to dabble with Lager. Allsopp installed a Lager brewery in Burton around 1900. Tennent of Glasgow built their Lager brewery in the 1880’s and William Younger brewed a Pilsner in 1878.
Whitbread’s last Porter wasa brewed in September 1940.
Thanks guys, will correct. I’m relieved that you haven’t found even more to comment on!
Ron: I knew about Tennent but for some reason had always assumed it was a new build or an expansion of a small brewery. Just been reading up on the history of it and now see it was a major producer even before it went for lager in a big way.
Hola Des, te saludo desde Argentina. Siempre me gustaron los estilos británicos de cerveza, elaboro cerveza en forma casera desde 2001 y soy juez certificado por BJCP desde 2010. En agosto de 2018 tuve oportunidad de visitar Londres, conocer cervecerías como Meantime, Fullers, Candem y Brew by Numbers, además de muchos pubs y el Great Brittish Beer Festival, en él adquirí una pequeña botella muy antigua, su etiqueta trae muy poca información. Me gustaría leer algún comentario tuyo sobre la misma si es que tienes datos. Podría enviarte una foto de la misma. Se trata de Watney Mann Yorkshire Stingo Barley Wine. Desde ya muchas gracias!!