Originally published in What’s Brewing June 2005
Origin: Faversham, Kent, England
ABV: 6.5 per cent
Buy from supermarkets
Website www.shepherd-neame.co.uk
Shepherd Neame 1698
Shepherd Neame helped pioneer the new generation of real ale in a bottle back in the mid-1990s, when a gorgeous version of Spitfire, now the brewery’s biggest seller in cask, found its way onto supermarket shelves. I regarded bottled Spitfire as a near-world classic, considerably tastier than its draught counterpart. The Champion Beer of Britain judges also recognised its virtues, awarding it a bronze medal in its class in 1994.
However, consistency and quality problems persuaded the brewery to replace the real thing with a filtered and pasteurised version. I first tried the new Spitfire without noticing that the words “bottle conditioned” had disappeared from the label, but quickly noticed something was amiss. This beer, though pleasantly tasty, was several notches down and rather lifeless, a clear example of what a difference live yeast can make.
Now Sheps are once again experimenting with real ale in a bottle, only this time at a higher strength to help minimise the problems. Like Spitfire, originally a special for the 50th anniversary of the Battle of Britain, 1698 first appeared as celebratory draught ale, marking the brewery’s 300th birthday in 1998.
Those three and a bit centuries support Sheps’ claim to being Britain’s oldest brewery, and they’re keen on local identity as well as tradition. Up in the north of Kent, near the Swale, they’re close to some of Britain’s best hop country – the beers have an appropriately hoppy accent, and 1698 is no exception.
Target goes in first, followed by two doses of East Kent Goldings. The Pearl pale ale malt is also sourced within the county, and there’s a dose of crystal too, giving a rich amber-chestnut colour with a moderate but persistent white head. You catch the fecund, earthy, slightly sweaty whiff of Goldings the moment you open the bottle.
The aroma settles a bit in the glass, with toasty malt and boiled sweets coming to the fore. A rich, nutty, toffeeish palate has complex hints of dried fruit, marzipan and slightly spicy hops, but remains fresh and fruity despite the heftiness.
The beer turns peppery on the swallow, with a nicely balanced finish that slowly unfolds to reveal fresh fruit, rounded bitterness and more rooty, spicy flavours. There’s a late touch of sweetish sherry.
It’s heartening to see a brewer of Shep’s stature return to the Real Ale in a Bottle fold with as fine an example as this. They should reconsider using their traditional clear glass bottle in this case, though — it might look nice, but it won’t do the contents any favours.
Read more about this beer at ratebeer.com: http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/shepherd-neame-1698/4143/
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