Red Lion (St James’s) SW1

London’s Best Beer, Pubs and Bars updates
Central London: Westminster, Victoria and Pimlico

Red Lion, Duke of York Street, London W1. Pic: Fuller's.

Traditional pub (Fuller’s) National heritage pub
2 Duke of York Street SW1Y 6JP
T 020 7321 0782 w www.fullers.co.uk
Open 1130-2300 (closed Sun).
Cask beer 5-6 (Fuller’s) Cask Marque, Other beer 1 keg (Fuller’s).
Food Enhanced pub grub lunchtimes, Wifi.

This miraculous heritage survivor, just round the corner from the celebrated Christopher Wren church of St James’s Piccadilly, is one of London’s prettiest pubs, and a lot more besides. The site has hosted a pub since 1788 but has been rebuilt and refitted several times since – the current handsome façade went up in 1871. Literally dazzling is the late Victorian interior, with two whole walls clad in original etched glass mirrors, complementing carved and polished wood and a richly decorated ceiling. The effect is intensified by the compact dimensions, with two small areas largely dedicated to vertical drinking fore and aft of a central bar – space would be even more restricted if the pub retained the original screens that subdivided these further. Visitors who find the pub through listings in various tourist guide books are often astonished by the small size.

Yet the pub retains the friendly atmosphere of a proper local, boosted by the lack of gaming machines and recorded music. It’s one of several famous London pubs acquired b Fuller’s in recent years, but they’ve made few changes other than introducing their excellent beers, including Chiswick at a deliberately low price, plus Bengal Lancer, ESB, London Pride, Seafarers and a seasonal or guest. Honeydew is on keg but sadly space precludes stocking a bottled range. Lunchtime food is solid pub grub like shepherd’s pie, fish and chips or squash and spinach risotto. Visit at quieter times to appreciate its splendour to the full.