Bull and Last NW5

The Bull and Last, London NW5

London’s Best Beer, Pubs and Bars updates
North London: Kentish Town and Tufnell Park

Gastropub (Independent)
168 Highgate Road NW5 1QS
T 020 7267 3641 w www.thebullandlast.co.uk tw thebullandlast
Open 1200 (0900 Fri-Sun)-2300 (2400 Fri-Sat, 2230 Sun). Children welcome.
Cask beer 4 (changing usually local guests), Other beer 4 keg, 5 bottles, Also 35 wines.
Food Daily changing gastro menu, Outdoor Tables on street, Wifi. Disabled toilet.
Sun quiz, wine and beer evenings.

“We’re proud of the care we put into our food and wine, and we realised our beer simply wasn’t standing up,” says Bull and Last staff member Adam, explaining why this renowned gastropub has evolved its beer range over the past few years from the handpumps of Doom Bar and Taylor Landlord sadly typical of the genre.

In truth there’s some way to go to match the impressive fine wine list, but it’s great to see a well chosen lineup of local beers from the likes of Camden Town, East London, London Fields, Hackney and Redemption on both handpump and keg, including darker options, and a slowly increasing bottled ranged that includes Dark Star and Kernel.

The pub sits beside the old North Road just before it begins its steep ascent of Highgate Hill, a shortish walk from Gospel Oak Overground and top beer pub the Southampton Arms (p157). Downstairs is a suitably rustic and very attractive small wood panelled single bar, dog friendly as befits a place handy for the east side of Hampstead Heath, and there’s an extra dining room upstairs.

You’re welcome to call in for a pint – seating at the bar and a couple of tables nearby is kept unreserved for non-dining drinkers – but food is the main focus, with dishes like roast venison, handmade pumpkin ravioli and aged côte de bœuf from sustainable sources. Much is home made, even the ice cream and oat cakes, and enjoyed by a generally well heeled clientele who often book in advance. Prices are good value for the quality on offer but certainly not cheap, while service can occasionally be a little trendier-than-thou.