First published in Beers of the World February 2008
San Francisco is a vibrant and cosmopolitan place with a reputation for both alternative lifestyles and fine food and drink, and a major tourist destination located in the heart of the one of the world’s most innovative and exciting beer regions. So it’s curious that city dwellers had to wait until May 2006 for their first speciality beer retailer.
Craig Wathen and his wife Beth opened City Beer Store precisely to fill that gap in the market, and because they believed in the contribution small businesses can make to the community. And a mixed and colourful community it is too, in the South of Market (SoMa) district where arty shops and cafés mix with light industry and the raunchier side of the city’s celebrated gay scene. The Folsom Street Fair at the end of September is billed as “the world’s largest leather event”.
“It happens right outside our door,” says Craig. “Easily our most memorable experience since opening, no competition!”
A board on the sidewalk guides you down a few steps to a basement space – small according to the locals, but generous enough by European standards – with a scattering of comfortable seating, a bar with six regularly changing draught taps and shelves and fridges crammed with about 300 different bottled beers, almost half bottle conditioned.
The range splits more-or-less down the middle into North American and Belgian products, with a smattering of other imports. The American beers are almost all from West Coast craft brewers, with an unsurprisingly strong showing for the region’s signature hoppy IPAs and a changing roster of rarities, limited editions and sought-after cask-aged bottlings. The Belgian range is well-chosen too, with beers from tiny brewers like Rulles alongside more familiar Trappists and independents, and a bias towards abbey triples.
All are available as single bottles – if you’ve ever been frustrated by some US supermarkets’ refusal to split six packs you’ll appreciate this – and may be enjoyed on the premises for a $1 corkage charge, accompanied if you wish by a plate of artisanal bread, cheese and sausage.
The Wathens also offer glassware, and host regular Thursday night tastings, themed around styles, breweries or new products. Craig reckons half his customers are locals and most of the remainder domestic tourists, but he’s been pleased to welcome a steady stream of overseas visitors, mainly from Europe and Japan.
The beer scene is buzzing by the Bay right now, with craft breweries expanding and a growing interest in beer and food matching, so this friendly shop is a great place to catch up on what’s happening and taste some of the results. And most readers will be glad to know that full leather is optional.
Fact file
Address: 1168 Folsom Street, Suite 101, San Francisco CA 94103, USA
Phone: +1 415 503 1033
Web: www.citybeerstore.com
Hours: 1200-2100 (1900 Sundays, closed Monday)
Drink in? Yes
Mail order: No
Manager’s favourites: Bear Republic Racer 5, Orval, AleSmith Speedway Stout
Beer picks
- Bear Republic Racer 5, 7% ABV, Healdsburg. Fruity, sturdy deep golden IPA with pine, blue cheese and violet notes, bitter orange finish, hoppy but much subtler than many other West Coast IPAs.
- North Coast Old Rasputin, 9% ABV, Fort Bragg. Excellent Imperial Stout with authentic gravy-like aroma, thick and smooth dark malt and cherry yoghurt palate and roasty black coffee finish.
- Port/Lost Abbey Red Barn, 6.7%, San Marcos. Refreshing saison-inspired cloudy golden ale with spicy aroma, creamy wheat, basil and orange liqueur palate and a chewy, chaffy herbal finish with late hops.
- Russian River Damnation, 7.7% ABV, Santa Rosa. Complex Belgian-style blond from an outstanding speciality brewer: seedy fennel aroma with hint of bacon smoke, herby tangerine palate and tangy, twiggy, grapefruity finish.
- Stone Ruination, 7.7%, Escondido. Classic West Coast IPA in aggressive hophead style, pungent strawberry-scented aroma, thistly hop and citrus peel palate, even hoppier long, peppery and resinous finish.
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