Toer de Geuze 2011, Top Tastings 2011
ABV: 6%
Origin: Lembeek, Vlaams-Brabant, Vlaanderen
Website: www.boon.be
Traditional lambic crocks and samples at Boon, Lembeek
On very rare occasions I taste a beer that’s so extraordinary it sends my rating system off the scale, and this, sampled direct from one of the gigantic oak casks at the Boon brewery during the Toer De Geuze, was one of them. Thanks to his deal with Palm, Frank Boon’s guezes and fruit lambics are now produced on a relatively significant scale and are the most often seen of the authentic “oude” style, which makes them a little too commonplace for the snobbier beer geeks, but for some time now they’ve been consistently good. Their quality reflects that of the base beers maturing in massive casks at the Lembeek brewery, and some of these, if my tasting experiences are anything to go by, are on another plane altogether.
The previous day I’d tasted an old Boon beer matured at another blender which had already rocketed into my top tastings of the year, but this one seriously realigned my scale of beer appreciation. So singular, so breathtakingly complex and sophisticated and yet so beautifully integrated, it was one of the most sublime taste experiences of my life.
As often with old lambics, it had matured into a foxy red-amber colour and was completely flat, with a perfumed, slightly spirity aroma of sherry, dried fruit and nuts. The palate was slightly syrupy, sourish and very, very complex, with mellow vanilla, dried fruit, coconut, vinous fruit, tannins and petrol. A souring but still kind, satisfying and long lingering finish had oily orange peel that developed fuller, fruitier tones, reminiscent of apricot pastry with a scattering of nuts.
And yet clearly not for everyone – some of my fellow brewery tourists were looking uncertain and leaving half-finished glasses. Lambic is indeed an acquired taste, but after sampling this, I had no doubt I’d finally got it.
Read more about this beer at ratebeer.com: http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/boon-oude-lambik/23579/
Leave a Reply